
WHY DO I CARRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRE?!?!?!?!
nails. They chip really easily and I have to do a lot of touching up. I know. It's a hard-knock life, right?
few shades from this brand before. Just yesterday I got Crimson, and now I'm rocking it like Hillary Duff.
I didn't have red nails for the rest of the run. Clearly.
This post is making me sound so sentimental I want to sock myself. American Me also apparently struggles to write meaningful blogs in a non-irritating way, especially because this reflection is not intended to encourage an outpouring of flattering responses. It's not a matter of being told I'm pretty or talented (though I'd be hard pressed to find a girl who doesn't like to hear those things anyway)-- it's a matter of feeling pretty and engaging and funny.
My sweet friend Anna told me I need to find something that can be a constant reminder of English Me. My boyfriend Big Ben as my screensaver on my phone isn't enough. In fact, I think it's making me nostalgic more than anything, and nostalgia is making me American Debbie Downer instead of English Me, who is charming and likes herself a lot and doesn't mind her faults quite so much.
I'll figure out something. But in the meantime, to answer the question, the thing I miss most about Europe is me.
Edinburgh, even though it's our third/last day here. I think I've just been so exhausted and burnt out from traveling so much, and STRESSED OUT over our show Flies in the Snuffbox that I haven't been able to let myself appreciate it fully. This morning we gave our second/final performance at the Fringe Festival, which is the reason we're here in the first place. It ended up being a good show, and I'm really proud of us all for pulling it together. I think it was a really good experience for all of us. And look at the logo for our venue, the Demarco Roxy Art House-- startlingly familiar...
So though our time has been limited, I've managed to do some nice sight-seeing. We had lunch
at the Black Medicine Cafe Co. That's right, you Harry Potter fans, that's where JK Rowling infamously began writing Harry Potter. It's exactly the kind of place you'd expect it to be, very quaint and cozy, especially when it's rainy and Edinburgh-y. We walked through the Fringe and were attacked by millions of people trying to advertise their shows. I wasn't mad, because we went and advertized quite loudly yesterday in the rain and you know, you gotta do what it takes to get seven people in the audience (I'm not exaggerating), but we felt bad taking their fliers when we know we can't see anything tonight. So we didn't take any.
And a trip to a foreign city wouldn't be complete without bashing through a medieval castle, so we used our British Heritage passes to get in. The view was gorgeous, and as usual I was struck by the layers of history there. We also got to see the Honours aka the Scottish Royal Jewels. Not quite as glittery as the Crown Jewels in England, but frankly, just as impressive. And you're not limited to being shoved through on a people-mover so you can linger around them as long as you want. Annie and I split the most delicious $5 chocolate ever, too.
I guess I should begin by mentioning the bagel I ate at JFK airport during our layover on the way to England in the first place. Anyone who knows me well knows that I rather live for bagels, particularly ones from New York, to the point that my mother brings them back for me as presents when she visits. Though I would have preferred a salt bagel with shmear, I settled for an Everything bagel because you can't go wrong with more, more, more, right? Bottom line: New York bagles > bagels from anywhere else. I was pleased.
because they came SO highly recommended by returning members of the group that I was like, "...I'm no conformist." But listen, the price is certainly right, and they're rather "traditional" to boot, and we all know how traditionalist I can be, if not conformist. I think my favorite pasty experience was in our first week, when we found a teeny little place on the way back from the British musuem-- cornish pasty, chips, and peas. The most satisfying was also our first week at Covent Gardens, sitting on the side of the road all in a row. But curiously, the most tasty was just yesterday on Fleet Street, rather cold, from a package, and shared with Anna. I wonder what it would have tasted like all piping hot?

Wagamama was a very London experience, our group all separated in a very warm, very large cafeteria-style place. To be honest, it was a little bit like glorified Raman-- perhaps the way Raman is supposed to be prepared, because the package likes to offer more filling ways to prepare such a happy 14-cent meal. Don't you worry, though, this was no 14-cent meal in honor of Anna's birthday. We took a nice break from the Tower of London to eat there because obviously there's no better way to celebrate the preservation of your head connected to the rest of your body like Japanese noodles.
we saw Twelfth Night. Many of us brown-bagged it, others got various overpriced sandwiches from Tesco and Pret and the like, and we all settled down in a corner of the park, right near a fountain, to enjoy the evening before an outdoor play. It turned a little bit ugly when we started playing Silent Football, though, when our shoulders were all beat upon by our neighbors in an attempt to catch the attention of King Joe the Pantless or whatever the heck we were supposed to call him.
I snogged a little while in London, at a delicious place appropriately called Snog. Lest you think my snogging was of the making out sort, it was actually a natural frozen yogurt shop. Like Provo's Pudding on the Rice, I kind of felt like I was inside my iPod the whole time we were there, but the yogurt was YUMMY!!! and it's the only place I found anything in London for free-- little pins that said clever things like "Snog with friends" and "Less talk, more snogging." You bet I took advantage of those.
typically French. I basically just ate bread and cheese while I was there. Breakfast consisted of a basket of bread, with various soft cheeses to spread on top. While everyone at buffet style at Flunch, I ate bread and cheese. All I ate for dinner our first night was a croissant and some other flakey pastry that I still don't know the name of. My very expensive lunch at the Louvre was basically a gourmet bagette. If I could keep French bread fresh longer, I would have brought some home with me. And though it wasn't glamorous, one of my favorite memories of French bread was shared with Jaclyn, breaking and sharing it on the Eurostar train on the way back to London.
Crepes are also everything they're cracked up to be in Europe, especially when they're filled with cheese and from a place that celebrities endorse, and shared with a big group of people as passionate about crepes as you are.
Pub food turned out to be quite good, if not expectedly overpriced. I celebrated Chris's birthday by eating a plate of chips. That's all. Just chips. I shared a surprisingly delicious plate of nachos with Annie in Stratford at a place called the Beefeater Restaurant, and some stuffed pasta with Anna on our last night in London up in the Marylebone area. I couldn't let my English experience be complete without a sampling of fish and chips (ever traditional), and even though I don't love fish, you can fry cardboard and it would taste pretty good to me. Mashed peas, maybe not my favorite, but I'm glad I didn't refuse the adventure.
So it's my last night in London. It's seriously late, and I have to be ready to go at 6:50am. What am I doing? Updating my blog and playing on facebook, obviously! I had intended to bid farewell to my boyfriend Ben, who is a very large clock so clearly it wouldn't have worked out, but I've spurned him because my Oyster pass officially doesn't work anymore. It kind of makes me sad not to have spent one last night together under the stars, but I have a feeling our love will rekindle sometime soon, so maybe it's better that I didn't say goodbye.





because duh-- it's Paris, France. We got up super early on Friday to catch a 5:45am train, and celebrated our arrival in a new, foreign-speaking country by eating the most delicious McDonalds food I've ever had in my life. Don't you dare make fun of me because I know how lame it sounds, and how lame it is, and how lame I am, clearly. CLEARLY. And besides, those cheeseburgers were FUN (especially if you were wearing a cardigan, which I was, and sometimes Chris. He thinks his was more of a party, but I'd put that up for debate). We made up for it by visiting the Musee d'Orsay on the first day, okay?
and:
and:
I kind of wish I had been able to stay longer, but at least I loved it enough to go back someday.
Give it up for the French, who let you take pictures of their art, as long as you don't use the flash. Even then, they don't care THAT much, unlike the British, where you're not supposed to take pictures of, like, anything anywhere. We also saw the Eiffel Tower, walked up the Champs-Elysee and forced Joe to hold hands with me, ate real French bread, and then climbed to the top of L'Arc de Triumphe. As if I hadn't had enough of stairs at St. Paul's! It was a beautiful night, and a great introduction to the city. And with our snappy museum passes, we got up there for FREE (kind of), which made it even better.
kind of disappointing because it was so irreverent. I mean, I got shoved out of the way when I was trying to look at the statue of St. Joan so that some non-specific European woman could take a picture. It was sad. The Centre Pompidou was interesting. I've taken some modern literature classes, and much as I've tried to transfer my interest in modern literature to modern art, it's not always the same. Don't get me wrong-- I certainly appreciate modern art, and I will continue to go to modern art museums in a continued attempt to learn to love it more but... give me some Pissarro any day. The weather was cool, though, all grey and drizzly. We found a place to eat creatively called Flunch. I'm not sure why I think it's clever, but it's obviously a play on the word lunch, so I just laugh along like I know why it's funny. I ate pain, fromage, and a tarte, which is to say, bread, cheese and a tart.
touched in a strange way by how all the cemetaries have been kept together and placed so carefully. It made me want to kick someone in the head when we emerged on the other side to discover security people checking bags because three skulls and a few leg bones had been swiped from the depths. Disrespect makes me hate people. When we met up with the rest of the group, we were going to go to the top of the Eiffel Tower, but it was closed due to wind, so we decided to take a ride down the Seine instead. Evidently, Annie and I were entirely enthralled:
Within minutes of getting off the boat, the Eiffel Tower, now lit up all beautifully, start TWINKLING with a thousand little lights. The hour leading up to that moment made me love Paris. And how could you not with this lovely view?
Conclusions after the first two days in Paris:
because mass is hard to follow anyway, but this mass was also entirely in French. Tourists continued to live up to their obnoxious reputations by taking flash photography throughout the service. The Stringhams and I bounced off to the Louvre after that, and it is certainly one of the most impressively large buildings I've ever walked through. We were surprised, but not surprised, by the Free Admission Sunday line that we had to join, but we got into the museum pretty quickly anyway. Once I had developed a sense of how to navigate the place, I set off to find the few pieces I really wanted to see, most especially, Psyche and Cupid, where I had another life-changing experience, though it has since become more life-changing after the fact:
I'll be honest-- I only spent about a little over an hour exploring the Louvre. There were SO MANY PEOPLE there that I wanted to die. In fact, I felt like I was dying, and being so overcome with frustration and the distinct smell of people, I skipped down to the Louvre Restaurant and had a very expensive poulet et fromage baguette and chocolate cake, to the tune of 15 Euro. It was worth every cent, particularly as I sat by myself eating it and writing in my journal. It kind of saved my Louvre experience, actually. But I will say this, I'm now very inclined to visit the library and find out more about the history of the palace itself, not just the art it houses.
Caught up again with the Stringhams to visit Cemitere du Pere-Lachaise, where some Important People are buried in very interesting tombs that sort of remind me of townhouses, only for corpses. We said hello to Jim Morrison and Chopin and Oscar Wilde, and I hopped over to spend a few minutes with Georges
Seurat. As I felt at the catacombs, I was so disappointed with mankind when we saw Oscar Wilde. You can't even read the name on his memorial, and it's apparently already been restored once before. Honestly, it just fit right in with the rest of the city in my mind, though, since it's COVERED in graffiti to begin with.
After miraculously finding Kelsey, whom we had misplaced earlier in the day (like one might misplace a handbag), we went up to Montmatre and I was pleased do discover that my romanticized, idealized vision of Paris does exist, just not where I expected to be (namely, downtown near all the big sites). I much prefered my Sacre Coeur experience (it being much more reverent since photos weren't allowed to be taken inside), and it started drizzling very prettily. Too bad my peace and tranquility were DASHED when we looked in the guidebook to discovering this startling, and depressing, bit of news:
Versailles (aka The Reason I came to Paris instead of staying in London four more days) is closed on Mondays for restoration.
Obviously, I was heartbroken, and nearly burst into tears on the spot except that I was too tired. This did not prevent me from a very dramatic, but warranted, reaction to the name Versailles written prettily in a metro station a few minutes later.
But I guess it's nothing that an evening nap, some facebook time, and a nice girly chat with some friends can't cheer up because I was feeling much better within a few hours. I just decided to sleep in, have a leisurely breakfast, and we'd all go up the Eiffel Tower to celebrate the end of
our weekend in Paris-- which is exactly what we did this morning.
After a nice grey weekend, we were glad to see the sunshine and a blue sky. The Tower was PACKED with tourists, pigeons, men who cut in line, Bosnian beggers, illicit Eiffel Tower keychain sellers (only 1 Euro, you guys), and people dressed in cool and interesting clothes that we're SURE must have stolen from people in our group. Pour example: tangerine-colored pants conveniently designed for women OR men!
It was a GORGEOUS day, and sure it took a few hours, but it was totally worth it so that we could stand in the presence of where Tom proposed to Katie a few years ago!!!! I couldn't help but think of my dad as we crawled up to the top and how overcome with vertigo he would have been. I was a little surprised to find myself affected by it as well, so I guess it runs in the family. But the views were beautiful and I learned that Mr. Eiffel had a little apartment built for himself up there, which taught me how I wouldn't want to live on the top of the Eiffel Tower.
After a run across town to an... interesting... store called Tintin in the St. Michel area, we grabbed our stuff from the hotel and then headed off to the train that would take us back to beloved London. I have four stamps in my passport now, you guys! Overall, I'm really glad I went to Paris, and looking back, I really liked thinking about all the things I did and saw. What's interesting is that I did not love Paris while I was actually in Paris. Perhaps this is the reason why Paris has become so romanticized? If nothing else, being in France made me realize exactly how much I've fallen in love with London, so apparently, Paris does make you fall in love, even if you're not there with a lover (which I most certainly was not).
Interesting facts about Paris:
1. They really do drink jus d'orange, and you can get it most anywhere.
2. The fold-down chairs on the metro are pretty neat.
3. Apparently the French are REALLY excited about The Dark Knight and The Mummy 3 because you can't go six feet in the metro station without seeing an ad for one or both of them.
4. If you ask a cashier if they take Visa, mostly they look at you like you have lobsters crawling out your ears.
5. Even though there are glorified portipotties on most street corners, it doesn't stop people from taking care of business right beside them-- ON THE SIDEWALK.
6. People in France sometimes choose not to speak English, even when you suspect they might be able to.
7. The Seine wins over the Thames in cleanliness. This is basically the only part of the city I would actually call somewhat "clean," however.
8. Aside from some chocolate and little bit of French food (that wasn't even that exciting), I had no desire to spend any money on anything there.
Things I'll do the next time I happen to be in Paris:
1. Actually see Mona Lisa.
2. Eat crepes with Nutella.
3. Spend more time in Montmatre.